Q1 : Is the product new or refurbished?

Everything listed on the website is brand new, direct from the factory, unless otherwise notified. Sometimes we will have factory refurbished units for sale, they will be labeled accordingly.

Q2 : Do I need to pay sales tax?

You will not be required to pay sales tax unless your shipping location is within the State of Ohio or you wish to pick-up your order at our warehouse. We are required to charge 6.5% sales tax on all orders shipping to an address within the State of Ohio and on all orders picked up from our warehouse.

Q3 : How long will it take to process my order?

Usually orders placed before 1:00PM Eastern Standard Time and paid via credit card will be processed and shipped the same business day. Orders placed after 1:00PM Eastern Standard Time will be processed and shipped the following business day. All orders paid via check or money order will be processed and shipped upon receipt and clearance of the check or money order.

Q4 : Will I receive an order confirmation?

Upon placing an online order you will receive a confirmation email. In this email you will be sent the details of your transaction along with a Transaction ID number.

Q5 : What is the status of my order?

A tracking number will be emailed to you once your order has been shipped. The email will include the shipper, the shipment date, and the tracking number. For all non-stock orders or for any other questions regarding the status of your order contact our office at 1-800-471-7871.

Q6 : What forms of payment do you accept?

We accept the following payment methods:
Credit Card (Visa, Master card, American Express and Discover)
Certified Check or Money Order
Personal or Company Check
Purchase Order (with approved credit)

Q7 : Is ordering online secure?

One of the biggest goals in online payment processing is security. Our servers are secure, so that your credit card information remains private. 128 bit SSL encryption throughout the order process lets you feel secure in your online transaction.

Q8 : Can I cancel my order after it has been placed?

There is no guarantee that you can cancel your order after it has been placed. We will do our best to help you cancel your order, but the orders are processed immediately most of the time. If your order has not been shipped we will likely be able to cancel your order. If you order a non-stock item and wish to cancel the order, contact our office immediately, we may be able to cancel the order still.

Q9 : How are the products shipped?

Items under 70lbs.
All items will be shipped via UPS
All items are delivered fully insured
Items over 70lbs.
Most items will be shipped via freight company (some exceptions apply)
Free Ground Shipping does NOT include liftgate services, inside delivery or any assistance from the freight carrier. Customers are responsible for unloading merchandise from freight carrier's truck. Carriers will often lend a hand, however they are not required too.
All items are delivered fully insured

Q10 : How long will shipping take?

UPS Ground Service: 5-7 Business days
Freight Ground Service: 2-5 Business days
2nd Day Delivery: 2 Business days
Next Day Delivery: 1 Business day

Q11 : Can I pick up my items?

Yes. If you wish to save the shipping cost and wish to pick up your order you are welcome to pick up your order at our warehouse. Our warehouse is located at 26610 Eckel Rd., Perrysburg, OH 43551.

Q12 : Do you ship to P.O. Box addresses?

We do not ship orders to P.O. Boxes. Please provide us with a physical address for shipment.

Q13 : Can you ship items to international addresses?

We do ship items to international addresses. Please provide us with your shipping information and we will get you a quote on freight. We use a global freight company and they have the ability to deliver items almost anywhere in the world. We look forward to shipping our products overseas.

Q14 : Do you ship to US Military APO addresses?

We ship to APO addresses. Please provide us with your shipping information and we will get you a quote on freight.

1.What is "HSPF"?

The heating seasonal performance factor is similar to SEER, but it measures the efficiency of the heating portion of your heat pump. The minimum HSPF allowed for a residential heat pump is 6.8. A small difference in the HSPF number can represent both a savings on the amount of electricity and the temperature of the air delivered by the heat pump in the heating cycle.

2.What is "SEER"?

The seasonal energy efficiency ratio is the amount of cooling that a heat pump (or air conditioner) delivers per dollar spent on electricity. In other words, a higher SEER unit uses less electricity. A 12 SEER unit uses the electricity of an old 6 SEER unit. After January 1, 1992, the minimum SEER allowed in our industry for residential equipment is 10. Currently Congress is considering raising the minimum efficiency to 12 SEER.

3.How important is SEER?

The least efficient unit available today is a 10 SEER system. This unit is probably 40%-50% more efficient than a 15 years old air conditioner. A 12 SEER unit uses 10% less electricity than a 10 SEER and a 14 SEER uses 20% less electricity than a 10 SEER. Usually the higher SEER (more expensive) systems are quieter and have a better warranty.

4.Do all 12 SEER air conditioners perform the same?

When comparing different brands of air conditioners, a 12 SEER 3 ton brand "A" will offer the same COOLING operating costs as a 12 SEER 3 ton brand "B". However, one brand may do a better job of removing moisture from the air. The better the moisture removal, the more comfortable you will be-even at a warmer temperature. An air conditioner that is over-sized (too large) will cool a home very quickly but, due to the shorter "run" time, it will not remove as much moisture. A slightly undersized air conditioner that must run more often will actually provide a more comfortable home, better humidity control, and at a lower operating cost.

5.How about a little data on SEER ratings. My unit is 15 years old and I have no idea what the actual efficiency is?

There are three main ways to determine the SEER of equipment: (1) find the model numbers of your present equipment and check them with a local contractor (such as Wall-Turner Company). (2) estimate the SEER based on the average SEER units produced approximately when your system was installed. (3) check the energy efficiency label on your outdoor unit if it was produced after 1989.
In the first method, contractors can then consult manufacturer data or the ARI directory which lists all models of equipment by manufacturers that certify their equipment.
In the second method, for air conditioners and heat pumps produced in 1981, the first year SEER criteria was used, the average ratings were 7.78 (A/C) and 7.51 (H/P) respectively. By 1987, SEERs reached 8.97 and 8.93 respectively.
By 1994, ratings increased to 10.61 for air conditioners and 10.94 for heat pumps.
Remember that The National Appliance Energy Conservation Act of 1987 set a federal standard of 10.0 SEER minimum for air conditioners and heat pumps made after January 1992. The fact that, two year later, the average was 10.61 shows that the best air conditioners available were only slightly better than 11 SEER in 1994.
In the third method, residential central air conditioners and heat pumps covered under Department of Energy test procedures and manufactured on and after June 7, 1988 , are required to have labels containing energy efficiency information.

6.What is a "ton" of air conditioning?

One ton of air conditioning is 12,000 BTU. A BTU is short for British thermal unit and is the amount of heat that will raise or lower one pound of water by one degree Fahrenheit. It is important to note that actual capacity is not constant and will change based on outdoor or indoor temperature. The published rating of a unit is based upon capacity when the outdoor temperature is 95 degrees F. and the inside temperature is 80 degrees F.
Also, some manufacturers may call their unit a 3 ton system even though it only delivers 34,000 BTU. Another manufacturer may be offering 37,000 BTU's with their 3 ton unit.

7.How often should filters be cleaned or replaced?

Filters should be replaced/cleaned once per month. Many "high efficiency" air filters have a longer useful life. Most of the electronic & electrostatic filters must be cleaned a minimum of once per month. Allowing a filter to become clogged with dirt will raise the operating costs of the system and can actually cause damage to the compressor.

8.Is a heat pump less efficient in the summer than a regular air conditioner?

A 12 SEER heat pump and a 12 SEER air conditioner would cost the very same to operate during the cooling season. There is no difference during the cooling months.

9.I've heard a lot about new refrigerants. What are the facts?

Residential heat pumps and air conditioners contain a refrigerant called R-22 which is classified as an HCFC. This is an environmentally safe and efficient refrigerant that will be available as long as your new system will last. There are some rulings being made by the US Environmental Protection Agency which require changes be made to refrigerants but not until the year 2020. Manufacturers will be producing units using R-22 until the year 2010 and the refrigerant itself will be available until 2030.
Manufacturers are testing many new refrigerants (and have been doing so for over 10 years). There are currently two frontrunners as possible replacements for R-22. One is called R-134 and the other is R-410A. One manufacturer who markets equipment under three different names has chosen to offer R-410A refrigerant in some units and they have given this refrigerant a "name"-Puron. Several manufacturers offer "Puron" or R-410A systems at the present time.

10.What is the difference in a Manufacturer's Limited Warranty and an Extended parts and labor Warranty?

A limited warranty covers specific parts (i.e. compressor, coil, electronics, etc.); therefore, it is limited by the language in the warranty. Extended warranties are generally purchased in addition to the equipment. Extended warranties cover all parts and may also include the labor for the service call. An extended warranty protects you for unexpected and unbudgeted service calls for the duration of the warranty. Be aware that no warranty includes maintenance, shipping costs, and related parts (parts not provided by the manufacturer). Most labor warranties do not include labor for diagnostics. Most of the better manufacturer's now require proof that routine maintenance has been performed on the equipment. If a contractor offers a labor or long parts warranty, you should remember that it is only good as long as the dealer is in business.

11.What size system do I need for my home?

There are many things which will determine the size (capacity) system your home requires. Some of these are: square feet to be cooled, local climate, humidity, number of windows, size of windows, type of windows, insulation factors, direction your home faces, heat producing appliances, and even the number of people who will be in the home. There are several different types of analysis that will help determine the proper unit.

12.When do I know it's time to replace my system?

When the system starts giving you more problems than seem cost-effective to fix, particularly when major components such as the compressor start making unusual noises or otherwise indicating need for service. When faced with major repairs, consider that a new system will eliminate costly repairs and will save money on your monthly power bill because of the increased efficiency.

13. Should I keep running my old system until it wears out or replace it sooner?

Because newer equipment usually is more energy efficient than older central air conditioning or heat pump systems, you may actually save money by replacing your old system before it wears out. In some cases, the money you save in reduced utility costs might pay back your purchase price of a new system years earlier than you might think.

14.Should my home be humidified?

That depends largely on your personal needs. Humidification is definitely helpful in many homes during a 6-8 week period during the coldest winter weather. In the coldest weather insufficient moisture in the air often is responsible for such assorted problems as stuffy noses, sore throats, more dust than usual, cracks and dried-out joints in wood furniture, and static electricity. A good humidifier can cost $350-$600.00. It will be used only during the winter months and you will need to "clean and start" the humidifier in the fall. When spring arrives, you must "drain, clean, and shut-down" the humidifier or it could become a breeding ground for mold during the summer.

15.How does a ductless system work?

With a ductless system, simple copper tubing and electrical wiring to indoor units connects a separately installed outdoor unit. Refrigerant is pumped from the outdoor condenser coil and compressor through the tubing to the indoor unit or units. A fan then quietly distributes cool air drawn across the unit's evaporator coil.

16. What are the main components of a Ductless system?

A ductless split air conditioning system consists of four major components:
(1) The condensing unit, which contains the compressor, is located outside the building.
(2) Thin refrigerant lines, usually copper tubing, connects the outdoor unit to the indoor unit or units.
(3) The indoor unit or units, each with a fan, come in a variety of shapes and sizes and can be wall or ceiling mounted.
(4) A hand-held wireless remote or wall monitor controls the entire system.

17.How is Ductless different than central air-conditioning?

The amount of cold air entering the room can he controlled by a thermostat or it can be regulated by an infra-red remote control, like a TV remote. One room or one area of a building can maintain a different temperature from another room or area in the same building.
In a central air-conditioning system, refrigerant is pumped from the outdoor condenser coil indoors to a single indoor coil from which cooled air is distributed to each room through a system of ducts. In many houses and businesses, the amount of cold air in one room cannot be regulated without changing the temperature of every room in the building.

18.What is "zone control"?

Ductless Split Air-Conditioning Systems offer room-by-room or "zone" control, which minimizes over-cooling typical of central air-conditioning systems. As in the example at the beginning of this brochure, many school systems now use ductless systems to conserve energy during the summer when only staff members may be present. With the zone-control ability of the ductless system, only occupied rooms of the school are maintained at a comfort level, and cooling for the rest of the building is turned down or shut off. Churches use ductless systems for similar purposes, saving cooling of the sanctuary for worship days. Church sanctuaries can be zoned so the front can be just as comfortable as the back (choir robes, candles, windows, etc.).
Zone-control is used in businesses where special equipment, such as computers or telecommunications equipment, requires colder temperatures than the surrounding rooms. A ductless system equipped with optional controls can cool a room even when outdoor temperatures reach far below freezing.
Space demands on modern business make it necessary for some companies to install modular and special-purpose offices within existing spaces. Ductless systems are perfect for these uses. The condensing unit can be placed outside the office, and tubing and wiring can be run into the room. Inside wall or ceiling units can distribute the cooled air with precision.
Ductless systems are the perfect solution for spot cooling - for example, in large structures like retail stores and supermarkets, where areas can be either too hot or too cold.
Since no ductwork or air distribution system is needed with a ductless system, there are few places where these systems cannot be installed. Systems have been placed all over the world - in small and large offices, shops, motels and hotels, schools and universities, telephone equipment rooms, computer rooms, banks and currency exchanges, churches, hospitals and laboratories. Ductless systems have been installed for both primary and back-up cooling.

19.What are the benefits of Ductless systems?

There are a number of benefits users get with a ductless system. These include easy installation, easy maintenance, quiet operation, heating, simple control, and attractive and efficient design.
An easy installation for your contractor means less mess, or disruption, for your home or downtime for your business. Ductless systems are easy to maintain. Many indoor units have washable filters and require only periodical cleaning. Outdoor units are designed for easy access for your contractor for those routine maintenance calls.
Both the indoor and outdoor units are designed for quiet operation. Indoor units are typically quiet enough for libraries, classrooms, boardrooms, and the most sensitive room in the house, the bedroom. Outdoor units are generally quiet enough to be installed under a window or near a patio so sleeping or the entertaining of guests is not disrupted. Indoor units blend well into interior spaces and you don't have to sacrifice a window as window type air conditioning units.
Ductless systems provide additional heating as well so you can live and work comfortably year-round. And ductless systems are easy to operate. Many provide system control features with a hand-head wireless controller or wall thermostat that puts you in direct control of your comfort.

1.What is a BTU ?

BTU stands for British Thermal Unit. It is the industry standard unit of measurement for heat quantity. 1 BTU is the amount of heat required to raise the temperature of one pound of water at its maximum density by 1 degree Fahrenheit.

1 BTU is 0.293 watts (watts per hour) (0.29296875)
1 watt is 3.412 BTU
1 US gallon of propane provides 92,000 BTU
1 cubic foot of natural gas provides 1,000 BTU

2.What is WC and PSI all about?

WC and PSI are measurements of pressure. WC stands for Water column. WC is based on an inch wide tube of water with a hole in the side at the bottom, the taller the tube of water the higher the pressure on the stream of water coming out of the hole in the bottom.
The diameter of the gas line is not to be confused with the pressure of the gas inside it. When we say a 4" WC regulator, we mean the pressure, not the diameter of your gas line. Our 4" WC regulators can take a pressure up to 14" WC and safely reduce the pressure to the required 4" WC amount - anything larger than a 14" WC pressure will cause our regulator to malfunction.
4" WC measurement is the same amount of pressure as a 4" high tube (or column). 28" WC is equivalent to 1 PSI, therefore 14" WC is 1/2 PSI and 56" WC is 2 PSI.
1" WC is equivalent to 0.578 ounces per sq inch.
4" WC and 9" WC are the typical pressures in residential areas, a heater the size of the 3500 FACNG requires commercial grade pressure.

3.How many BTUs do I need? / What size heater do I need?

Use our BTU calculator to make things simpler

4.Can I use an infrared heater inside?

Yes. Outdoor models are designed for well ventilated places. Well ventilated does not mean you have a bit of a draft under a crack in the door. In a garage with a window or garage door open, yes you can safely use any of the 12-IR -> 24-IR range of heaters.
Never use them in areas where people are sleeping.
Never in a house, tent or RV.
Always pay attention to safe distances.
The DESA range of infra-red heaters is the way to go for indoor infra-red heat. These units are designed for indoor use and have safety mechanisms built in to protect you.

5.I have a new style tank with outside threads, will my heater work with this?

Yes, the new style tanks have inside threads also, through which our heater hoses will connect.

6.What Insulation type should I use for a greenhouse when using your BTU calculator?

Greenhouse insulation surprises people, but a modern greenhouse in good condition can achieve average insulation but the majority of others can only be classed as poor.

7.How much space should I allow between an infrared or patio heater and the surrounding walls / ceiling?

Surrounding walls are only a problem if they contain combustable materials (e.g. wood or drywall) or material that would melt (e.g. porch screening).
A safe guide is:
3 feet above
2 feet from the sides
2 feet from behind
6 feet in front

8.Why do I need a 100 lb propane tank for the indoor gas heaters?

With the exception of the outdoorsman model which can run from a 20 lb tank, the indoor gas heaters require a 100 lb because of the speed at which the gas flows to the heater. The faster the propane flow the colder the propane gets (experience this by blowing air gently from your mouth to your hands, then blow some air as hard as you can into your hands - the faster moving air is colder than the slower moving air). Hooking up these heaters to a 20 lb tank is okay for demonstration purposes but after a short while the flow of propane will freeze the 20 lb tank valve and the heater will shut down due to gas starvation.

9.What are the differences between all of the ignition types on the universal range of heaters?

A piezoelectric switch (pronounced peezo) contains a crystal that exhibits piezoelectric properties. A piezoelectric crystal converts mechanical force into an electrical voltage, hence, you press the button and an electrical charge is used for ignition. If you have ever started a gas barbeque you have used a piezoelectric switch. Continuous electronic ignition is a constant spark generated from an electrical source. It keeps sparking as long as the heater is on. Automatic solid state ignition is where transistors are used to generate the spark. Our adjustable heaters utilise this sort of ignition so that the thermostat can be used to precisely control the fan starting and an 8 to 10 second ignition period. Match light is as you might have guessed the oldest of starting systems. It is only used on a couple of our Infrared heaters. The 24-IR has even moved away from the old match based system to a piezoelectric switch.

1. What is "AFUE"?

The Annual Fuel Utilization Efficiency. In a general sense, it is a measure of the amount of heat that you actually get inside of the home compared to the amount of heat that is being used by the system. As an example, a 100,000 BTU, 80% AFUE gas furnace will provide 80,000 BTU's of heat into the home if it runs for one hour. The other 20,000 BTU's of heat will go up the chimney as products of combustion.

2. How important is AFUE?

The least efficient gas furnace available today has a AFUE of 78%. All furnace manufacturers today build two efficiency ranges of gas furnaces. Their standard gas furnace will be between 78%-81% efficient (called "80% AFUE") and their high efficiency gas furnace will be between 90%-96% efficient (called "90% AFUE). To be practical, most homes will have some factor that will justify one efficiency range or the other. In very few homes are both efficiency ranges equally practical.
The 80% AFUE gas furnaces require some type of masonry or metal vertical chimney. A home with an existing chimney is usually a candidate for the 80% AFUE furnace. A home that currently has no chimney (ie, existing heat pump home that may be switching to natural gas) or a home that has a very old defective chimney, probably would be the best candidate for a 90% AFUE gas furnace. Other factors also play into the choice.

3. What air conditioner works best with a gas furnace?

Any efficiency air conditioner (or heat pump) will operate with a gas furnace. There is no one type or efficiency that is "better". In most parts of the country the heating system runs more than the air conditioner and is, therefore, the more expensive item to operate. For this reason, We recommend that your choice of a furnace is more important than the air conditioner. You will benefit from purchasing the best, lowest operating cost, gas furnace. If this stretches the budget, then purchase the more standard model air conditioner.

4. What is the difference in a Manufacturer's Limited Warranty and an Extended parts and labor Warranty?

A limited warranty covers specific parts (i.e. compressor, coil, electronics, etc.); therefore, it is limited by the language in the warranty. Extended warranties are generally purchased in addition to the equipment. Extended warranties cover all parts and may also include the labor for the service call. An extended warranty protects you for unexpected and unbudgeted service calls for the duration of the warranty. Be aware that no warranty includes maintenance, shipping costs, and related parts (parts not provided by the manufacturer). Most labor warranties do not include labor for diagnostics. Most of the better manufacturer's now require proof that routine maintenance has been performed on the equipment. If a contractor offers a labor or long parts warranty, you should remember that it is only good as long as the dealer is in business.

5. What is the difference between manufacturers products?

First, you are probably aware that most manufacturers market their gas furnaces under several different brand names. Often these furnaces are identical. Carrier markets under several brand names including Bryant. Rheem markets under the name Ruud. American Standard markets under their own name plus Trane. The list goes on and on. The differences between truly competing gas furnaces can be significant. The thickness of the metal used for the equipment jacket (quietness), the thickness of the heat exchanger (quality), the construction of the inner parts of the furnace (quietness), quality of the internal components, warranty, insulation, packaging, availability of parts-all are areas where a gas furnace can be made into a quality product or just a commodity.

6. My gas furnace is no longer heating properly. What is the most likely problem?

Most of our "replacement" gas furnaces are sold because the old furnace developed a crack in the heat exchanger. The crack is seldom visible to the untrained eye. Sometimes it is not visible to the most experienced technician but he is able to make a judgement call based upon the operation of the system. Maybe the pilot light keeps going out. Maybe a safety switch sometimes cuts the furnace off. Then the homeowner resets the furnace and it seems to work for a few days. Both of the above could be due to a cracked heat exchanger. As the "crack" gets larger, the chance that the furnace will malfunction becomes much greater. If the homeowner fails to see the symptoms, eventually a technician will be called for repairs.

7. What is a cracked heat exchanger?

The heat exchanger is the area of the furnace where "heat" is exchanged-from the fire at the gas burner to the air that is recycled into the home through the duct system. The heat exchanger is sealed so that the products of combustion from the gas burner never come into contact with the air that goes back into the home. When a "crack" develops, the seal between the two sides has broken and the products of combustion (including carbon monoxide) can mix with the air going into the home.

8. When do I know it's time to replace my system?

When the system starts giving more problems than seem cost-effective to fix, particularly when major components such as the gas valve or heat exchanger fail. When faced with major repairs, consider that a new system will eliminate costly repairs and will save money on your monthly power bill because of the increased efficiency. The average life of a gas furnace is 18-20 years. We recommend that any gas furnace over 12 years old only be repaired as a last resort. The newer models are so much more efficient that often they will help pay for themselves with the fuel they save.

9. Should I keep running my old system until it wears out or replace it sooner?

Because newer equipment usually is more energy efficient than older central air conditioning or heat pump systems, you may actually save money by replacing your old system before it wears out. In some cases, the money you save in reduced utility costs might pay back your purchase price of a new system years earlier than you might think.

10. What is the best type of system to meet all indoor comfort needs?

The best system depends on many variables, including family size, house location, design, and utility costs. The optimum indoor comfort system might include high efficiency air conditioning, high efficiency heating, high efficiency air cleaning, air purification, and humidification.

1.What about the function of odor elimination of Air Filter?

The most effective air purification technologies for eliminating odors are ozone purification and activated carbon air filtration. Ozone is a highly reactive and powerful oxidant capable of destroying odor-causing bacteria, while activated carbon is the most absorbent type of filter for removing chemical odor-causing agents. Using a combination of the two technologies, as is done in the Surround Air "Multi-Tech" Air Filter, is the best way to remove odors.
Ozone is great for environments where strong odors exist, but can be overbearing when they do not, since ozone has its own scent. In which case, it is important to be able to control the ozone output, or even to be able to turn the ozone completely.

2.What about the function of Filter Sanitization of Air Filter?

Air filters serve as a breeding ground for micro-organisms. The fabrics within an air filter allow micro-organisms attached to trapped dust particles to reproduce and/or breed. In which case, it is imperative that an air filter has a sanitizing device located next to the filter. Otherwise, the growing populations of microbes will be circulated into the air. A UV lamp, ionizer, or ozone generator can be used for this purpose, although a germicidal UV lamp is most effective at destroying micro-organisms.

3. What about the reasonable price and replacement costs for Air Filter?

Price Can Be Deceiving. In the air filter market, there are inexpensive air filters that are very effective, and extremely expensive air filters that do not clean the air very well at all. In which case, cost is not necessarily the way to determine the best air filter for your situation. Instead, the criteria given in this Air Filter Buying Guide is a better way to judge an air filter.
Know the Replacement Costs. It is also important to verify replacement costs before buying an air filter, so you understand the total lifetime cost. Some air filters cost a couple hundred dollars a year in replacement filters.

4. What is electricity consumption of Air Filter?

Many air filters consume heavy amounts of power, adding upwards of $200 a year or more to your electricity bill. In which case, it is important to verify the wattage used by an air filter. Anything over 100 watts, can add over $100 a year to your electricity bill.

5. How do Smoke Detectors Work?

Smoke detectors are one of those amazing inventions that, because of mass production, cost practically nothing. You can get a smoke detector for as little as $7. And while they cost very little, smoke d­etectors save thousands of lives each year. In fact, it is recommended that every home have one smoke detector per floor.
Smoke detectors can run off of a 9-volt battery or 120-volt house current.
All smoke detectors consist of two basic parts: a sensor to sense the smoke and a very loud electronic horn.

6. What is a dust collector?

Dust collectors are devices that filter dust from polluted air and discharge clean air into the environment. Efficient dust collectors protect employees and society from exposure to pollution, recover product from the dust filled air and facilitate compliance with health and air emission standards. There are various types of dust collectors that efficiently treat different types of air pollution. The most commonly used are inertial separators, baghouse collectors, air washers and scrubbers, electrostatic precipitators and cartridge dust collectors. By understanding these dust collection technologies we can ensure a cleaner, purer environment at our work place, homes and society.

7. How does a dehumidifier work?

The way a dehumidifier works is similar to the way condensation forms on a cold window. A dehumidifier contains a compact refrigeration system which makes it the coldest place in the house. Air is drawn into the cold dehumidifier where any moisture in the air condenses on the hydrophilic coils and is collected on the easy pour container.

8. Would I need to run a dehumidifier all the year round?

Running a dehumidifier from early October until the spring is generally sufficient as more moisture is generated during the summer weather. It's also better to start using your dehumidifier before the winter starts; this reduces the risk of moisture soaking into your walls. If you do start your dehumidifier part way through the winter it is advisable to run it continuously for around 2 weeks to ensure your home is properly dried out.

1.What is a thermostat?

A thermostat is a device that controls the temperature of an environment by adjusting the degrees to maintain a preferred temperature range. It will turn on heating if the temperature becomes chilly, or start-up the air conditioning if it gets too warm. Thermostats control the mechanisms of heating and/or cooling systems by directing energy to the right system when needed, bringing you a nice and cozy environment and saving you money!

2. What different types of systems can be regulated by a thermostat?

Single-stage heating indicates one gas or electric heating device for the system. It can consist of just a heater, or include an air conditioning device as well. Almost all systems that use natural gas are single-stage. Generally, a single-stage thermostat will need to accommodate five wires or less if the system handles heat and air conditioning. If the system is only for heat, only three or fewer are needed.
A multi-stage system will have both a standard gas or electric heating device as well as an auxiliary and/or emergency heating device. The auxiliary or emergency heating will engage when the temperature drops faster than the main heater can maintain, or, if there is a problem with the main heater. The wiring of a multi-stage thermostat is connected to a W2 terminal.
Heating systems are either conventional (gas or electric) or use a heat pump. Heat pumps are unique in that they consist of a single unit that provides both heating and cooling. In the Midwest heat pumps are a popular choice for most households. If you know that your system runs both heating and cooling entirely out of one unit, and features an auxiliary setting, it is likely that you have a heat pump.
Line voltage systems use direct current, and either use 120 or 240 volts for a household system. One telltale sign that your home can accommodate a line voltage thermostat is that wires are much thicker to handle additional conducted power. Line voltage, electric heat thermostats are common with older construction, especially where electric or baseboard heaters are present. Line voltage systems are not compatible with gas heating. The adjustment controls are usually mechanical, rather than digital programmable, and almost always have either two or four wires (single pole versus double pole).

3. Should a thermostat be set to "auto" or "on"?

When the thermostat is set to "auto", the fan operates only when the temperature requires it (whenever the cooling unit or heating unit is running). When set to "on", the fan operates all the time. You may want the fan to run all the time to do its best possible job of filtering the air.